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I.U Gripe!

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bluenose
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Postby bluenose » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 7:24 am

Daylight is upon us so just been to check the I.U....yep when the fan is off the I.U is on.....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Where do they get these people from....
get rid of the foreigners......you cannot even connect an effing I.U unit!!!!!!!

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Postby sensei_ » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 8:48 am

how hard is it to find switch power from one of the many circuits on a motorbike?

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Postby bluenose » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 9:26 am

The guy tells me today 'it should come direct from the battery'.....'why did you not do it the first time' I replied.....you will learn the hard way I explained as I have sent an invoice for the two wasted trips from my own company to VICOM.....pay up or else

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Postby sensei_ » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 11:59 am

bluenose wrote:The guy tells me today 'it should come direct from the battery'.....'why did you not do it the first time' I replied.....you will learn the hard way I explained as I have sent an invoice for the two wasted trips from my own company to VICOM.....pay up or else


no kidding mate. if you cannot find a switch/constant 12v, then the next best thing would be to tap into the battery. the stupidity of some "auto sparks" sometimes amazes me.

however, trying to get VICOM to pay up will be harder than squeezing blood from stone.

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Postby sundaymorningstaple » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 12:50 pm

Wouldn't tapping directly to the battery drain said battery over a period of time if not used? Wouldn't it be better to tap into the headlight supply? In Singapore the bike's headlight switched on automatically when the ignition is on? So, to me, that would make more sense.

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Postby bluenose » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 1:18 pm

My lights are not automatic.....but switched and if they put it there...then you forget to turn it on...oops....10 dollar fine :wink:
It should be direct source to battery....not sure how much power it consumes...minimal like alarm one would presume.....it would flatten the battery over a period of time but...a long period at that....

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Postby bgd » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 2:35 pm

The IU might be more of a drain than you expect. I guess they constantly transmit/receive. Just thinking about how my mobile battery lasts so much longer when it is in airline mode, i.e. all transmitting turned off.

A friend parked her Vespa with me for a week or so. The week or so turned into a month or so and the result was a completely dead 6 month old battery. It had to be replaced. The scooter wasn't alarmed so I couldn't think what could have drained the battery until reading this thread.

No problem if the bike is used reqularly but for long periods idle you might want to consider disconnecting the battery.

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Postby x9200 » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 3:04 pm

It should be hooked up after the ignition switch and problem solved. The headlights are typically dependent on the ign. switch so the headlight/high beam switch (in, NOT out) is a good place to get it connected. I would not connect the devil directly to the battery.

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Postby taxico » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 3:45 pm

bgd wrote:...A friend parked her Vespa with me for a week or so. The week or so turned into a month or so and the result was a completely dead 6 month old battery. It had to be replaced. The scooter wasn't alarmed so I couldn't think what could have drained the battery until reading this thread...


auto vespa? the dash and ecu/immobilizer sucks (some) battery.

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Postby sensei_ » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 5:23 pm

sundaymorningstaple wrote:Wouldn't tapping directly to the battery drain said battery over a period of time if not used? .


depends on how its connected. one could also install a voltage meter that will cut power to the IU should it drop beyond a preset value.

when i wired up in car cameras for my relatives, i always put one of those "smart controllers" that ensure that the device doesnt run the battery flat completely.

but try telling that to the idiot installers here and you might as well speak tamil.

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Postby sundaymorningstaple » Wed, 24 Apr 2013 6:03 pm

That's okay then, my wife does ........ ;-)

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Postby bgd » Thu, 25 Apr 2013 10:46 am

taxico wrote:auto vespa? the dash and ecu/immobilizer sucks (some) battery.


It was. That might explain the size of the battery. Can't remember the amp hour rating but it was substantially bigger than most bike batteries I've seen.

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Postby offshoreoildude » Thu, 25 Apr 2013 1:02 pm

sundaymorningstaple wrote:Wouldn't tapping directly to the battery drain said battery over a period of time if not used? Wouldn't it be better to tap into the headlight supply? In Singapore the bike's headlight switched on automatically when the ignition is on? So, to me, that would make more sense.


The older ones drain a bit but the newer ones almost nothing. The standard method is to connect direct to batt on all I've looked at. I personally switch it over to a switched fuse because I've found that if you leave a low balance card in the red LED and beeper will keep going and that WILL flatten the battery on my smaller bike.
Now I'm called PNGMK

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Postby Wd40 » Thu, 25 Apr 2013 9:06 pm

Mine is connected direct to the battery. I am on vacation in Bangalore right now for 2 weeks and the last thing I did before boarding the taxi to the airport is to disconnect the negative terminal to the battery and also the IU wire connecting to the negative terminal, this way my battery wont drain and I should be able to start easily when I am back(hope so [-o< :) )

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Re: I.U Gripe!

Postby Vara125SG » Tue, 16 Aug 2016 1:27 pm

Dear contributors to the forum,
I am the owner of a Varadero 125 and I face an issue similar as the one described in these posts, hence I hope that maybe you could give me a valuable feedback/pieces of advice.

My problem is the following: When I don’t drive my Varadero for 1 or 2 days, I cannot start the engine any more (it works only with push start).
The battery was changed less than one month ago, but the problem remains.

Would you have any idea what could happen?
I suspect the IU might drain off the battery (my current cashcard value is low at 5.5$: can it be a cause even if I take it away when I park?), or maybe a short circuit/loose connexion somewhere?


I drove the bike to the repair shop but they want to keep it several days to do full testing, and they mentioned possible repairs (magnetic coil, and/or others) of more than 300$ which is a lot compared to the bike’s value. They told me that the battery and the charging were OK.

Or do you have any suggestion of a repair shop that could conduct quick/inexpensive tests?

Thank you very much in advance


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