And unless challenged by other obstacles, moi says, pull a Cat 5 cabletaxico wrote: if you have similar problems, i recommend the same. if channel 11 doesn't work, channel 1 is your next best bet.
Taxi, you already figured most of this out, but just to add a bit for those finding this in the future:taxico wrote:the frequent wifi disconnects at my wife's office have been driving me crazy.
sat down yesterday with a borrowed laptop that had an RF usb dongle and analysis software, and found out the place is inundated with 2.4ghz signals coming every which way, especially at the channel 6, which is making my wifi signal go crazy.
this is extremely annoying because i stream radio on my laptop and the disconnects kept breaking the playback.
long story short, instead of spending money on a new 5ghz band wifi router, i moved it, turned off the A/B/N signals, turned on 20mhz support ONLY, changed it to channel 11, turned off all other useless functions on the router (QoS engine, etc), only AES-WPA2 encryption and everything works just fine now.
if you have similar problems, i recommend the same. if channel 11 doesn't work, channel 1 is your next best bet.
Those Ethernet over Powerline kits work surprisingly well too. The only challenge with them is the lack of power outlets in many units (relative to the US at least).ecureilx wrote:And unless challenged by other obstacles, moi says, pull a Cat 5 cabletaxico wrote: if you have similar problems, i recommend the same. if channel 11 doesn't work, channel 1 is your next best bet.![]()
This is nice in theory but in normal practice the right way to do this is to check the individual channels and see the signal, noise levels and the transmission rate. In my location ch 11 is very crowded. The noise can vary tremendously over some period of time. 1 and 6 have not so many users but the quality is also rather poor. You have no slightest control and often the idea what are the devils in your surrounding. BT, microwaves, wireless AV transmitters, non-dec wireless phones...They will not show in your wifi scan. I personally and proudly own an AV transmitter that kill half of the 802.11g band within its hole transmitting range (10-15m). I also own a high end baby monitor (iDA certified) that kills everything within 2m range.zzm9980 wrote:Taxi, you already figured most of this out, but just to add a bit for those finding this in the future:taxico wrote:the frequent wifi disconnects at my wife's office have been driving me crazy.
sat down yesterday with a borrowed laptop that had an RF usb dongle and analysis software, and found out the place is inundated with 2.4ghz signals coming every which way, especially at the channel 6, which is making my wifi signal go crazy.
this is extremely annoying because i stream radio on my laptop and the disconnects kept breaking the playback.
long story short, instead of spending money on a new 5ghz band wifi router, i moved it, turned off the A/B/N signals, turned on 20mhz support ONLY, changed it to channel 11, turned off all other useless functions on the router (QoS engine, etc), only AES-WPA2 encryption and everything works just fine now.
if you have similar problems, i recommend the same. if channel 11 doesn't work, channel 1 is your next best bet.
Channel 1/6/11 and the three recommended channels on the 2.4Ghz range as they don't overlap. If router supports 5Ghz, you should try it. It will be less suspeptible to RF interference, but you'll have significantly reduced range. Also, that wavelength is worse at penetrating walls. (If I close my bathroom door, I get no signal on 5Ghz. If I open the door, I get ~75%. And I was only testing in there)
I only said 'recommended', and are still a good place. 99% of the people searching this forum with Wifi problems will have no idea how to try every channel and monitor for signal noise and transmission rates. Those that do (like yourself) can troubleshoot their own wifi issues without resorting to an expat forum for helpx9200 wrote:This is nice in theory but in normal practice the right way to do this is to check the individual channels and see the signal, noise levels and the transmission rate. In my location ch 11 is very crowded. The noise can vary tremendously over some period of time. 1 and 6 have not so many users but the quality is also rather poor. You have no slightest control and often the idea what are the devils in your surrounding. BT, microwaves, wireless AV transmitters, non-dec wireless phones...They will not show in your wifi scan. I personally and proudly own an AV transmitter that kill half of the 802.11g band within its hole transmitting range (10-15m). I also own a high end baby monitor (iDA certified) that kills everything within 2m range.zzm9980 wrote:Taxi, you already figured most of this out, but just to add a bit for those finding this in the future:taxico wrote:the frequent wifi disconnects at my wife's office have been driving me crazy.
sat down yesterday with a borrowed laptop that had an RF usb dongle and analysis software, and found out the place is inundated with 2.4ghz signals coming every which way, especially at the channel 6, which is making my wifi signal go crazy.
this is extremely annoying because i stream radio on my laptop and the disconnects kept breaking the playback.
long story short, instead of spending money on a new 5ghz band wifi router, i moved it, turned off the A/B/N signals, turned on 20mhz support ONLY, changed it to channel 11, turned off all other useless functions on the router (QoS engine, etc), only AES-WPA2 encryption and everything works just fine now.
if you have similar problems, i recommend the same. if channel 11 doesn't work, channel 1 is your next best bet.
Channel 1/6/11 and the three recommended channels on the 2.4Ghz range as they don't overlap. If router supports 5Ghz, you should try it. It will be less suspeptible to RF interference, but you'll have significantly reduced range. Also, that wavelength is worse at penetrating walls. (If I close my bathroom door, I get no signal on 5Ghz. If I open the door, I get ~75%. And I was only testing in there)
In other words advising to stick to this or that channel without knowing the particular site is not really a good advice.
Come on, is everything so black and white to you? Learn to address the audience you're speaking (posting) to*. There is a *huge* difference in skill levels between choosing a channel from a drop down in your consumer wireless AP's setup menu than there is measuring Signal, Noise, and Through-put on each channel yourself. I've been able to easily tell people who have had connectivity problems to pick a new channel, and suggest they start with 1, 6, and 11, and they've been successful. And again, why those? Because if they see problems on Channel 1, they'll likely have issues on 2 and 3 also if it is due to overcrowding.x9200 wrote:If somebody does not know what is this whole wifi thing about then perhaps what should be recommended is to stick to the "auto" channel settings?
Good example from my neighborhood:zzm9980 wrote:Through-put on each channel yourself. I've been able to easily tell people who have had connectivity problems to pick a new channel, and suggest they start with 1, 6, and 11, and they've been successful. And again, why those? Because if they see problems on Channel 1, they'll likely have issues on 2 and 3 also if it is due to overcrowding.
I will concede this argument to you and chalk up my loss as misguided faith in humanity. I'll remember to be even more cynical than I usually amx9200 wrote:if you are a person of great faith in people of Singapore adhering to the recommended standards
Ok, fair enough I think I went perhaps one step too farzzm9980 wrote:I will concede this argument to you and chalk up my loss as misguided faith in humanity. I'll remember to be even more cynical than I usually amx9200 wrote:if you are a person of great faith in people of Singapore adhering to the recommended standards![]()
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Seriously, I agree with everything you said, but was trying to simplify for future forum searchers.
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