Plug adaptors

[Lophophora]

Hello,

I will be settling my home recording studio in Singapore next month, with european appliances.

I have these plugs:

And Singapore uses "type G" plugs. Will it be ok to simply plug adaptors in the power outlets and then plug a "euro" multi-socket for all my appliances? I don't want to set fire to the house we rent... My appliances are not very powerful (computers, monitors, various electronic stuff, music instruments but no powerful amplifier) but I have 20 of them to plug into the 2 power outlets of the room.

Got any advice for me?

[Strong Eagle]

Just don't buy really cheap adapters... they will fail. Look for solid construction, brass contacts, and Singapore's seal of approval.

[JR8]

You should check the fuse on the power outlet circuit. And how many outlets are there on that once circuit, plus what's already drawing from it? You might typically expect al outlets in one room to be on a single circuit.
Because hoping to get 20 appliances into one circuit (even via 2 outlets, which frankly is secondary) is asking a lot IME.
Golden rule: Watts = Volts * Amps [IIRC ]. So as an example if say your circuit has 5 Amp fuse (the circuit fuse-board, not the plug or adaptor), then the max load is 5*240=1200W. And really you should leave a 20% buffer to cope with spikes, so say about 950W max on the whole circuit.

The Amp/rating to the room is the first thing to confirm... but either way 20 appliances is asking a LOT IMO.

[Strong Eagle]

Agree with JR8 about not overloading the circuits. Most circuits I have seen in Singapore are 13 amp. A typical desktop PC and monitor will draw around 80 watts while idling, maybe twice that if you are working out the CPU. Routers and modems draw 9 to 12 watts.

See also this thread. http://forum.singaporeexpats.com/viewtopic.php?t=89571

[Lophophora]

OK thanks for the input!

[JR8]

Heating/cooling appliances tend to draw the most. Perhaps connected to the concept/law of heat 'being the lowest form of energy?'? - don't know.

Something like a 1500W hair-dryer with 20% contingency might alone account for over half the capacity of a room-circuit at 13A/240V. Put on some Motorhead - loud - and you're stuffed [Maybe you indirectly toast the birds hair-do too? hehe]

It pays to look at your intake-cupboard: The 'consumer unit' aka fuseboard. Each fuse/breaker will have a rating and if you're lucky will indicate which room it feeds. You can typically expect the kitchen to be a 30A circuit. Others might be 13A, i.e. a working load of about 3kW. Identifying max working load per room and the likely current being drawn before you start tripping fuses can save inadvertently overloading then trying to diagnose issues later. Esp in SGn and similar modern housing where the provision of sockets and individual room circuits can be pared down to the very minimum.

[nakatago]

Euro plugs can fit into UK/SG outlets; you just need to press the switch inside the hole for the grounding pin.

That said, I won't do it to high-power appliances.